Kathmandu Valley, a well known repository of medieval
art and architecture also houses the largest
conglomeration of medieval Buddhist monuments in the
form of monasteries or Vihars- locally known as Baha in
Newari dialect. In addition to religious sanctity, these
Viharas or Bahas offer a living testimony of Buddhist
Art flourished since the medieval times. Architecturally,
a Baha, usually consists of a square central hall or
courtyard enclosed by small rooms or cells, with the
main shrine opposite the main entrance.
The deity enthroned inside the main shrine is called
Kwapa-dyo, an image of the Buddha sitting in Vajrasana
and showing the 'Bhumisparsa (earth touching) 'gesture.
The courtyards contain at least one Chaitya. Other
common features of a Baha is a 'Torana' (tympanum) over
the main entrance and the main is entrance guarded by
two stone mythical lions. From the inside, the main
entrance is flanked by two Hindu deities Mahakal and
Ganesh as the Guardians. The Baha or Bahis have a finial
or a small tower on the roof above the main shrine.
Although in the mediavel times, the Bahas were used to
house communities of celibate monks, presently the Bahas
are inhabited by the descendants of the monks who
returned to common family life. They are known as
Vajracharyas and Shakyas. There are said to be 356
Vihars (Large and small) of which only a few of the
famous ones are listed below as representative guide to
visit these marvelous Buddhist heritage.
Kathmandu
Kumari Baha or Kumari Chen
:
Located just opposite the famous Gaddi
Baithak in the eastern part of Kathmandu Durbar Square,
the complex of Kumari Baha also house the goddess of
Kumari - the Royal deity. The Baha or Vihar consists of
a three storeyed structure built round an enclosed
courtyard and the main entrance is guarded by two huge
stone lions. The external facade and inside facade
facing the courtyards are embellished with the exquisite
wood carved windows and doors. The main shrine is
directly opposite to the entrance and there is a stupa /
Chaitya in the courtyard. Aside from serving as a Vihar,
this is primarily the shrine of the living goddess
'Kumari' a Buddhist girl - chosen and worshipped as an
incarnation of Hindu mother deity.
Kwa- Baha:
This is situated in
the northern part & Kathmandu in Tha-hiti a few
minutes walk from the famous Thamel locality. The shrine
is a three storeyed building surmounted by a small cupola. An artistically decorated by wooden frames, the
door of the main entrance is flanked by the images of
Sariputra and Mandgalyana
- two principal attendants of Lord Buddha.
Inside the courtyard are an 'Ashokan Chaitya' a stupa
structure of earlier period and a common small Chaitya
on a pillar. The steps leading to the main shrine are
flanked by two metal lions.
Musya Baha:
Located in Jyatha
adjacent to Tha-hiti, this Baha is one of the few
typical Baha structures left intact. The entire building
is of two storeys. The main deity (Kwapa-dyo) is an
image of Aksobhya facing north and the main door of the
shrine is guarded by two stone lions. Wooden carved
struts support the entire tiled roof structure.
Dhwaka Baha:
A few minutes walk
down the road from Masya Baha is Dhwakabaha is a
aspacious courtyard with the shrine of the main deity
'Aksobbya' located in the south-east corner facing
north. Although the vihar has not been able to retain
its original structure - due to the severe damage in the
great earthquake of 1934, there are three stupas of
which two stupas date back to Licchavi period testifying
antiquity of the place. Historians have ascribed the
origin of the Vihar to not later than 7th century
A.D.
Chusya Baha:
Located in Jyatha
Tole - a minutes walk down the road from Musya Baha,
Chusya Baha, probably is the finest example of Baha
architectures. Directly opposite the entrance is the
shrine of Akshobhya the Kwapadyo, facing north. The
entrance is flanked by two elephants. One of the most
striking features of the Baha is the series of
beautifully carved struts supporting the courtyard. As
the struts are ascribed to the fourteenth century A.D.,
it is believed the origin of the monastery could be
dated even earlier.
Itum Baha:
Situated a little west of Kilagal Tole, Itum
Baha is one of the largest and oldest of Vihar
complexes. It is a large, rectangular courtyard and
surrounded on three sides by residential buildings.
Although three other subsidiary vihars adjacent to the
main courtyard comprise the vihar complex, the main
shrine is located in second subsidiary courtyard. Over
the entryway to this courtyard is an exquisitely carved
wooden torana depicting an episode from Lord Gautam
Buddha's life and is believed to belong sixteenth
century A.D. or even earlier period. The main deity or
the Kwapa dyo is an image of Aksobhya facing east- the
main entrance. The Baha shrine is marked by a metal
lions and stone lines flanked large temple bells. In the
centre of the courtyard is an Chaitya (Stupa) and to the
east of this a stylised stupa with large Buddha figures
believed to be dated between eleventh or twelfth
century.
Yatkha Baha:
A few walks from
Itum Baha is another Baha in the Yatkha Tole. Although
it does not bear any common features of a typical
monastery anymore, this Baha is noted for a large stupa,
in the centre of the large courtyard - surrounded by
residential houses. The main shrine building is of
recent renovation. However, the wooden 'Torana' is of unusual
depiction of seven Buddhas and probably dates
back to twelfth century A.D. The central stupa is a
reminscent of the famous 'Swoyambhunath' Stupa.
Takse Baha:
The Baha is situated
off Asan Tole - one of the busy bazaar areas of
Kathmandu. The entrance to the shrine is marked by two
stone lions each flanked by large temple bells. Over the
doorway is a metal torana depicting Mahavairochana - the
first of five celestial Buddhas. The main deity of the
Vihar is an image 'Aksobhya' facing north. In the
courtyard are an 'Asoka' chaitya and three other votive
chaityas.
Te Baha:
A famous court yard or a
locality in Kathmandu, is located in the eastern end of
New road. Although the salient features of a typical
Baha is virtually missing it is assumed the compound
comprises two Bahas in medieval times. One of the main
shrines 'Kwapa dyo' is situated among the buildings
along the western side. The second 'Kwapadyo' is located
in the center. The compound is more renowned because of
other religious shrines and historic stupas existing
here. Among others, within the complex are the house of
a deity celled 'Sankata', the shrine of 'Bhadrakali'
Chen (or the residence) two highly popular Shakta
deities of the Kathmandu valley. In addition, the open
area also houses several Licchavi - period stupas -
chaityas. Historians attribute this area as of high
historic importance and ascribe the origin to 5th
century A.D.
Jana Baha:
Located in Kel Tole,
this Baha is one of the most famous of all the Bahas of
Kathmandu. Hundreds of devotees throng to this places
since early morning to early afternoon. Also every
evening, religious prayers are sung at the main entrance
of the courtyard at the tunes of traditional devotional
music. Culturally, this Baha is most well known as the
home of White - Matshyendranath or Jana Baha dyo or
Karunamaya - the compassionate one. Although, the Baha
does not possess a typical Baha architecture (original
structures destroyed in 1917 fire), the importance of
the courtyard is enhanced by the shrine of Jan Baha dyo.
The shrine is a two storeyed elaborately decorated
temple. The whole facade of the temple is decorated with
a great array of Buddhist figures and each of the three
doorways has a repousse torana / tympanum.
Directly in front of the main door of the shrine is a
small chaitya - known as Kanak Chaitya (presently a
shape of white dome). In addition, the courtyard is
filled with an array of stone images and thirty one
votive stupas.
Sigha Baha:
Situated in the
Naghal Tole - few minutes walk from Thamel is a Sigha
Baha also known as Kathe Swoyambhu - a large courtyard
with a huge stupa - reminiscent of the great
Swayambhunath. The dome of the stupa rests on
white-washed pedestal. Above the dome or Garbha is a
four sided harmika with all-seeing eyes similar to those
at Swayambhu. In the courtyard around the main stupa are
a number of votive Chaityas. shrines including mother
Harati and deities from Mahayan Pantheon. Offer
important feature is a stone standing Padampani assigned
to the ninth century A.D.
Syangu Baha:
The local Buddhist
community of Kathmandu refer the famous Swoyambhunath
shrines as Syangu dyo - and it is assumed there existed
a Buddhist Baha in the olden times, However, the whole
complex is dominated by the all famous "Swoyambhu
Mahachaitya" - the huge white dome towered by harmika in
each cardinal.
Tham Bahi:
Also known as Bhagwan
Baha, Tham Bahi is one of the best preserved complex of
its kind. Located in the northern part of old Kathmandu
township the famous area of Thamel drives its name from
Tham Bahi. The Bahi/monastery is only a stone's throw
from the main bazaar of Thamel. The main shrine is
located through an entryway which opens to the courtyard
proper. The main shrine is directly opposite the
entrance and is of three storeys with a large cuppola.
The shrine is flanked by two mythical creatures Sardulas
and lions. The main deity of the shrine is an image of
Simha Sartha Bahu a legendary hero/ trader of ancient
Kathmandu. The complex is typical with a two storied
building with open halls on ground floor and lattice
covered, overhanging balconies above.
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Patan /
Lalitpur
Of all the Viharas
in Kathmandu Valley the or Bahas of Patan also known as
Lalitpur is more renowned for the artistic workmanship
in tera cotta metal and wood works. Numerically too, the
town of Patan has more Bahas than other cities of
Kathmandu and Bhaktapur. For centuries, Patan has
remained prodominantly Buddhist.
Kwa Baha:
Kwa Baha also well
known by its sanskrit name Hiranyavarna Mahavihar, is
the foremost Baha (monastery) of Patan. Situated just
down the street from the crossroads known as Kwalakhu
Tole, this Baha is probably known as one of the most
active Bahas. The complex is known as the most lavishly
decorated of the Bahas primarily because the community
members are wealthy traders who have constantly
embellished the complex. The street entrance has two
large stone lions as guardians and a stone facade with a
stone tympanum depicting celestial Buddhas.
Passing Through this entrance and a small
entry way leads to the main shrine complex. Nick named
as 'the Golden temple' inside the complex are numerous
gilded images and the facade of the imposing Kwapadyo
shrine (the main deity). The temple in the centre of the
courtyard is another attraction which is made of gild
copper repousse work. The main shrine is a four storied
structure with three gilded roofs. The entrance is
flanked by two large cast iron mythical lions each
standing on an elephant and surmounted by an image of
Lokeswore. The doorway to the shrine is an excellent
temple of metal workmanship - all finished in gilt
repousse work and above it is one of the finest tympanum
(torana) anywhere all made of silver. The Kawapadyo
(main deity) of the Baha is a large silver image of
Aksobhya facing east.
As said earlier, the other striking feature, of this
complex is the shimmering temple in the center of the
courtyard which enshrines a Chaitya from Licchavi era.
The shrine is an excellent piece of extraordinary metal
work and almost entirely covered with gold and metal. It
has a single gilt copper roof above which rises a
pinnacle with four snakes whose curved tail raise to
hold a multi-staged umbrella over the main bell shaped
final, Historically, this Baha dates back to not later
than eleventh century A.D. or even earlier.
Uku Baha:
Uku Baha is one of the
best preserved and oldest of all Bahas of Patan. Located
a minutes walk south medieval heritage. Also known by
its from the Sundhara (the golden spout), this Baha
displays a unique collection of sanskrit name
'Rudravarna Mahavihara, this Vihar is said to have the
largest number of branches in the valley. Passing
through a gateway in the street one enters the first
compound and an entryway from this is led into Uku
Baha
itself.
The main shrine is of three two roof structure. Steps
leading to the shrine are flanked by large stone
mythical lions each standing on a crouching elephant an
surmounted by an image of Lokeswore. The doorway is
marked by a finely worked repousse of arch of leaf and
floral motifs. The Kwapa dyo is a large metal image of
Aksobhya. Opposite the shrine in the courtyard runs a
row of traditional pieces. The first item is a Lichhavi
Style Chaitya followed by 'Dharmadhatu Mandala'
surmounted by a Vajra, a recess for the sacred fire, a
metal lamp on a stand and an image of Manjushree.
Mahabuddha Baha:
The famous
temple of Mahabuddha is the best known shrines of Patan.
Situated in the south of Uku Baha and inside a small
cramped courtyard, Mahabudha Buddha complex consists of
a large terracotta 'Sikhara' style temple in the centre
of the courtyard which houses the shrine of Kwapa dyo
with a shrine to the mother deity to the side.
Completely made of terracotta in this temple every brick
has an image of Buddha. So the complex is also called
the temple of 'thousand Buddhas'. Although, this unique
temple is said to have been influenced by the
architectural from of Bodh Gaya, a close look would
reveal the originality of a Nepalese structure. Although
the present structure is newly built after the great
earthquake of 1934 exactly as of original one, the
foundation of the structure was laid during sixteenth
century A.D.
Chaku Baha:
Also known as Tanga
Baha, this complex is located in the Tanga Tole on the
east side of the road leading south from the Patan
Durbar Square. The complex does not offer a typical Baha
complex as most of the buildings and structures are of a
recent origin except the free standing temple of main
deity or the Kwapa dyo. The Kwapa dyo is the red image
of Padampani Lokeswore. This deity is popularity known
as Chakuba dyo or Minnath. The temple structure is two
storeyed of which upper roof is gilded copper and the
lower one is tiled roof. In addition the courtyard has
several other pieces of antiquity and archaeological
importance. It include a bathing platform, several
votive chaityas, stone mandalas, interesting stone
mythological lions, a large prayer wheel and a rest
houses all dating not later than 17th century A.D.
Ta Baha:
This huge courtyard is
located just opposite the Chaku Baha across the street.
The complex is well known amongst the Buddhist community
primarily because the Baha, in addition to a well
established odd monastery (vihar) shrine, also houses
the temple of 'Bungadyo' Red Machhendranath. And these
two shrines are totally independent in functioning.
Along the southern wall of the complex is the house
of 'Kwapadyo' the shrine of the Baha. It is a single
standing - probably a part of larger complex in the
earlier times. Doorway of the shrine is surmounted by a
torana - itself surmounted by a triple parasol The deify
'Kwapadyo' is an image of Aksobhaya facing north.
Chovar or Cho Baha:
A Very
popular Buddhist shrine Chobaha is located in the center
of the Chobhar Village above the gorge across the
Bagmati river. The complex is an entirely closed
courtyard at the top of the hill and the shrine of
Kwapadyo is a three storeyed, multiple roofed temple, Of
the three roofs upper most is gilded copper the rest are
tiled roofs. The most striking feature of the temple is
the great array of pots, pans and household utensils
nailed to almost all the open space on the surface above
the ground floor. It is believed such offerings are done
in the temple so as to benefit the deceased relatives in
their after next birth. The Kwapadyo enshrine in the
temple is an image of Adinath - Lokeswore and is the
main attraction of the complex.
Ha Baha:
Also known as Hakha Baha
or Hatko Baha, is one of the few Bahas of Kathmandu
which has retained the original Baha architectural norms
and preserved the mediavel beauty. The street entrance
is a stone arch torana depicted with fine celestial
Buddhas and the door is marked two stone lions. The
shrine of the Kwapa dyo opposite the entrance is an
imposing three storey temple. The doorway to the shrine
is elaborately carved and finished in repousse metal.
The image of the Kawapadyo is an image of Aksobhya
facing north. In the courtyard, there is on array of
several mandalas and Chaitya - some even dating back 7th
century AD from Licchavi period.
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Bhaktapur
Laskadyo Baha:
The complex is
best known as the Bhaktapur Shrine of Matshyendranath.
Situated in Itachhen Tole, this temple is a two storeyed
structure - one tiled roof surmounted by two smaller
roofs farming a sort of cupola. The lower of the small
roof is tiled, the upper one is of gilded copper and
surmounted by a golden gajur (pinnacle) make in the form
of a Chaitya.
The Kwapadyo (the main deity) of the shrine
is a metal image of Padampani Lokeswore. Locally also
known Annapurna - Lokeswore is fully covered with a
metal cloak embellished with floral ornaments. The
locals worship this shrine as the local deity of
Matshendranath Karunamaya or Loknath. In front of the
temple are a cluster of seven Chaityas and dharamdhata
mandala. The shrine is dated to belong around
seventeenth century A.D.
Inacho Baha:
Situated in Inacho
Tole, the Baha complex possess one of the few well
preserved Baha shrines left in Bhaktapur. The doorway of
the shrine is marked by two stone lions. The Kwapadyo in
the shrine is Aksobhya facing west. The first storey has
the customary five fold, carved window flanked by two
smaller windows carved struts depicting the five Buddhas
supporting the roof. In the center of the courtyard are
three chaityas, the central one of which has a ring of
oil lamps around it. Historians ascribe this shrine
complex to the late Malla period.
Tadhi Chen Baha:
Located just off
the area of the Bhaktapur Durbar Square, it is possibly
the only example of Baha architectural structure left
intact. It is one continuous building in a small
courtyard. Opposite the main entrance is the shrine of
the Kwapa dyo - Padampani Lokeswore. The entrance is
flanked by two stone lions. The shrine of Dipankara is
located in the north west corner of the complex. The
origin of the Baha is dated to early fifteenth century
A.D.
When to visit the Bahas Although a Baha is always
open to outside visitors except the Kwapa dyo Shrine, it
is more rewarding to visit during certain occasions when
the Bahas observes annual ritual/festival or during the
initiation of Buddhist community (Bare Chuyegu) i.e.
Bajracharyas and Shakyas. The recommended time to visit
these Bahas is 'Gunla'- a month from a Newari Calendar
which normally occurs in mid July to mid-August. During
the month these festivals mentioned above take place.
- Panchdaan - The alms giving of five offerings. The
day differs in each of three cities of the valley.
- Bahidyo - boyegu - The display of gods and goddess
of the shrine which lasts for the days.
- Mataya - a festival of light - This is a typical
of Patan Buddhists which is not observed elsewhere. On
this day, the Buddhists of Patan visit all the Bahas
and Buddhist shrines carrying lighted candles, torches
or tapers.
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